Your water heater is in all probability the most essential component of your homes plumbing technique. A adequately maintained heater can last from ten to fifteen years or additional. But, a heater not correctly maintained can fail in four to six years. water heater repair Yorba Linda of the drinking water in your location and the place of the heater in your residence are out of your manage, but right upkeep of the heater and your plumbing technique is essential to heater longevity and security.

This write-up provides you a list of products to verify for both tank type and tankless water heaters. As you go through the actions in checking your heater, if you have the slightest doubt in your capability, get a professional, licensed plumber involved! You are dealing with hot water, natural gas, and electrical energy!

Tank Type Water Heater Upkeep:

Vent (Gas Water Heaters Only)

The vent should be the similar diameter as the draft diverter on the heater tank.
The vent need to go usually “up and out” the ceiling.
Exactly where is passes by means of the exterior wall, the vent should really be double-walled.
Vent sections need to be screwed together with a minimum three screws per section.
Note: Undesirable vent pipe connections can fall apart and lead to carbon monoxide poisoning, the silent and deadly gas!

Temperature & Pressure Relief Valve (T&P Valve)The T&P valve is created to stop the heater from exploding if the water stress or temperature exceeds secure limits.

Pull up the handle on the valve and water should really flow out and stop when you let go of the handle.
The T&P valve has a drain line that need to go down to about six” from the floor or be plumbed outside your dwelling.
Note: Water leaking out of a T&P drain line can signal a negative T&P valve, high water pressure, or a malfunctioning thermal expansion device.

Water Pressure (All Water Heaters)

Water stress more than 80 pounds per square inch (psi) can damage heaters and your piping. It can also damage plumbing appliances, toilets, and your fixtures.
Note: 1 giveaway that your have higher water stress is when the T&P Valve on the heater begins opening and closing.

Outer Water Heater Metal Shell & Plumbing Fittings

Inspect the heater outer sheet metal shell for leaks or rusting.
Inspect the plumbing fittings on the heater for corrosion, rust, or water spotting.
Note: Rusty fittings or discolored shell is a telltale sign that a leak is present!

Temperature Control

Inspect the heater temperature control dial to insure its set at the appropriate water temperature.
The excellent water temperature is 120° Fahrenheit.
Note: Anything above 120° Fahrenheit drastically increases scalding threat, power use, and sediment build-up in the bottom of the heater!

Combustion Chamber (Gas Water Heaters)

Turn the gas valve handle to “pilot position”.
Take away the outer access hatch or cover on the side of the heater.
Inspect the roof of the chamber for heavy rusting, water marking, or pitting.
Return the gas valve manage back to the “on position”.
Note: Black soot in the combustion chamber suggests drafting difficulties, combustion complications, fume challenges, and a fire hazard!

Pedestal Base (Gas Water Heaters)

Make certain the pedestal base the heater rests on is steady and supports the unit.
The typical pedestal will hold the bottom of the heater at least 18″ off the floor.
Note: A newer water heater may possibly have a “filtered combustion chamber” that is supposed to resolve the need for a pedestal. Check the owner’s manual for your heater.

Drain Valve

Open the drain valve to insure that mineral sediment, anode sludge, or rust has not clogged your heaters drain.
Drain Overflow Pan

If your heater is on the 2nd floor above living space it ought to have a drain pan.
The drain pan must be plumbed to the outside of your home.
Inspect the situation of the drain pan, fittings, and piping to the outdoors.
Corrosive Fumes (Gas Water Heaters & Tankless Water Heaters)

Water heaters draw air in for combustion and the quality of the air is vital.
Corrosive liquids, ammonia, or acids stored close to a heater can lead to corrosive air.
Note: Corrosive air drawn into the burner can prematurely corrode the heater.

Internal Tank Corrosion and Rust-The internal tank of your heater is constructed of steel and glass lined to avert rust. Sacrificial anode rods are installed in the tank to safeguard the glass lined internal steel tank from rust. Aluminum/Zinc or magnesium anode rods corrode more than time and get used up via an electrolytic process.

Note: Replacing the anode rod can extend the life of the heater but, should be done by a educated, professional service technician.

Sediment Create-up-Sediment is developed when challenging water is heated. The create-up of sediment in the bottom of the tank can result in the bottom to overheat and melt away the glass lining of the tank. It can drift into recirculating lines, jam open check valves, and trigger the recirculating pump to stick till it burns out. Sediment construct-up on the bottom of gas water heaters encourages noisy operation. The noise is triggered by small amounts of water beneath the sediment layer turning into steam bubbles, which then collapse violently.

Note: Sediment make-up can decrease the energy efficiency of the heater and void the warranty on some Residential Water Heaters!

Tankless Water Heater Maintenance:

Flushing-Most tankless water heater manufacturers advise flushing the whole unit just about every 6 months to 1 year depending upon the water high-quality. Reference your manufactures recommendation for flushing. Flushing the unit consistently removes any mineral deposits (ordinarily calcium or lime) that might have built up inside the boilers. Suppliers suggest working with a utility pump to circulate three or four gallons of vinegar or a further low-grade acid for 45 minutes to clean out any deposits.