Your water heater is almost certainly the most vital component of your houses plumbing method. A appropriately maintained heater can last from ten to fifteen years or far more. But, a heater not effectively maintained can fail in 4 to six years. The situation of the drinking water in your region and the location of the heater in your property are out of your control, but suitable maintenance of the heater and your plumbing method is crucial to heater longevity and security.
This post gives you a list of products to check for each tank variety and tankless water heaters. As you go by means of the steps in checking your heater, if you have the slightest doubt in your potential, get a experienced, licensed plumber involved! You are dealing with hot water, natural gas, and electricity!
Tank Form Water Heater Upkeep:
Vent (Gas Water Heaters Only)
The vent really should be the similar diameter as the draft diverter on the heater tank.
The vent must go generally “up and out” the ceiling.
Exactly where is passes through the exterior wall, the vent need to be double-walled.
Vent sections really should be screwed collectively with a minimum 3 screws per section.
Note: Undesirable vent pipe connections can fall apart and lead to carbon monoxide poisoning, the silent and deadly gas!
Temperature & Pressure Relief Valve (T&P Valve)The T&P valve is made to avert the heater from exploding if the water pressure or temperature exceeds safe limits.
Pull up the handle on the valve and water should flow out and cease when you let go of the manage.
The T&P valve has a drain line that should really go down to about 6″ from the floor or be plumbed outside your dwelling.
Note: Water leaking out of a T&P drain line can signal a bad T&P valve, high water pressure, or a malfunctioning thermal expansion device.
Water Pressure (All Water Heaters)
Water stress more than 80 pounds per square inch (psi) can harm heaters and your piping. It can also harm plumbing appliances, toilets, and your fixtures.
Note: 1 giveaway that your have high water pressure is when the T&P Valve on the heater starts opening and closing.
Outer Water Heater Metal Shell & Plumbing Fittings
Inspect the heater outer sheet metal shell for leaks or rusting.
Inspect the plumbing fittings on the heater for corrosion, rust, or water spotting.
Note: Rusty fittings or discolored shell is a telltale sign that a leak is present!
Temperature Handle
Inspect the heater temperature handle dial to insure its set at the right water temperature.
The best water temperature is 120° Fahrenheit.
Note: Something above 120° Fahrenheit tremendously increases scalding threat, energy use, and sediment build-up in the bottom of the heater!
Combustion Chamber (Gas Water Heaters)
Turn the gas valve manage to “pilot position”.
Take away the outer access hatch or cover on the side of the heater.
Inspect the roof of the chamber for heavy rusting, water marking, or pitting.
Return the gas valve handle back to the “on position”.
Note: Black soot in the combustion chamber indicates drafting problems, combustion complications, fume issues, and a fire hazard!
Pedestal Base (Gas Water Heaters)
Make positive the pedestal base the heater rests on is stable and supports the unit.
The typical pedestal will preserve the bottom of the heater at least 18″ off the floor.
Note: A newer water heater may well have a “filtered combustion chamber” that is supposed to resolve the need for a pedestal. Check the owner’s manual for your heater.
Drain Valve
Open the drain valve to insure that mineral sediment, anode sludge, or rust has not clogged your heaters drain.
Drain Overflow Pan
If your heater is on the 2nd floor above living space it really should have a drain pan.
The drain pan need to be plumbed to the outside of your house.
Inspect the situation of the drain pan, fittings, and piping to the outdoors.
Corrosive Fumes (Gas Water Heaters & Tankless Water Heaters)
Water heaters draw air in for combustion and the high quality of the air is significant.
Corrosive liquids, ammonia, or acids stored close to a heater can lead to corrosive air.
Note: Corrosive air drawn into the burner can prematurely corrode the heater.
Internal Tank Corrosion and Rust-The internal tank of your heater is constructed of steel and glass lined to stop rust. Sacrificial anode rods are installed in the tank to safeguard the glass lined internal steel tank from rust. Aluminum/Zinc or magnesium anode rods corrode more than time and get applied up via an electrolytic method.
Note: Replacing the anode rod can extend the life of the heater but, ought to be carried out by a trained, specialist service technician.
Sediment Construct-up-Sediment is developed when challenging water is heated. water heater replacement Brea develop-up of sediment in the bottom of the tank can bring about the bottom to overheat and melt away the glass lining of the tank. It can drift into recirculating lines, jam open verify valves, and cause the recirculating pump to stick till it burns out. Sediment build-up on the bottom of gas water heaters encourages noisy operation. The noise is brought on by modest amounts of water beneath the sediment layer turning into steam bubbles, which then collapse violently.
Note: Sediment develop-up can minimize the power efficiency of the heater and void the warranty on some Residential Water Heaters!
Tankless Water Heater Maintenance:
Flushing-Most tankless water heater producers advise flushing the entire unit every six months to 1 year depending upon the water good quality. Reference your manufactures recommendation for flushing. Flushing the unit consistently removes any mineral deposits (generally calcium or lime) that may have constructed up inside the boilers. Suppliers advocate working with a utility pump to circulate three or 4 gallons of vinegar or another low-grade acid for 45 minutes to clean out any deposits.